CUTWORK

In cutwork, the forerunner to needlelace, the design of leaves, flowers, and figures are surrounded with buttonhole stitch. Areas of the background fabric are cut away.

CHARACTERISTICS

• Design elements outlined with buttonhole stitch.
• Fabric is cut away leaving open spaces.
• Large open spaces connected with bars or brides, whipped or buttonholed.
• ROMAN : small cut out areas with no brides or bars.
• RENAISSANCE: larger cut out shapes, supported by worked bars or brides.
• RICHELIEU: similar to Renaissance, but bars decorated with picots.
• VENETIAN: padding of threads under the buttonhole stitches.

HISTORY

Cardinal Richelieu, Minister to Louis XIII in 17thC, deplored the sumptuous dress of the French court, including the elaborate Venetian lace which was much in demand by the French aristocracy, resulting in poor balance of trade. In spite of heavy taxes, trade continued. Richelieu then called skilled Venetian lace makers to France, set up schools and workshops, encouraged the application of new techniques and helped to establish lace industry in France. Cutwork remained in vogue in the 17th with designs of large flower sprays and surrounds in high relief.

In 19thC, popular study of this particular embroidery inspired bold cutwork with buttonhole edges and picots. The term RICHELIEU seems to have been used to describe this work.

REFERENCES:
The Anchor Manual of Needlework, Batsford 1990
Cutwork Emrboidery and How To DO IT, by Oenone Cave, Dover Publications, NY, 1982
Drawn Fabric Embroidery by Edna Wark, Batsford, London, 1979
Drawn Thread Embroidery, by Moyra McNeill, Batsford, London 1989
Weldon’s Encyclopedia of Needlework London
Whitework Embroidery by Barbara Dawson, Batsford, London, 1987
A – Z of Whitework Book 1 surface Embroidery, Inspirations Books, 2007

Valerie Cavill, May 2007