ROULADE special form of FAGGOTING/INSERTION
Faggoting in embroidery, often referred to as insertion work, is a decorative joining used to join cloth or lace.

Faggot - the original meaning is a bundle of sticks, twigs or small branches bound together to be carried for use as fuel.
- today a colloquial, derogatory term for a mean, grouchy person.

CHARACTERISTICS

* Design formed with long strips of lace or material, usually roulades (thin strips of material joined together and turned inside out to make a tube).
* Cretan or herringbone stitch joins the strips in a decorative manner.
* Other decorative stitches often used in filling spaces.

ORIGIN
In earlier times when people were very poor, every piece of material was saved. Folk hit on the idea of joining together strips to make one piece which was wearable. Later on, because it looked so attractive and lovely, it took on a more decorative form.

Fine ladies used faggoting on exotic fabrics to make lingerie, as decorative insertions in dress and articles of household linen. It was an ideal way to lengthen a petticoat or pantaloons or adding a false hem on a garment.

The Victorians used faggoting alot, often the satin roulades were used for collars and cuffs. Cotton thread was also used because this could be starched and the loops ironed to remain wide open.

WORKING
1. Long strips of tape, lace or material hemmed on either side, are joined together with various types
of stitching. With fine exotic fabric, tiny rolled hems are used. OR
2. Long strips of fine satin, often called "straps", were made in a roulade and flattened with an iron.
The strips are then tacked down onto patterned brown paper. The distance between them carefully measured - not too wide - about 1/4 to 1/2 inch. In Mexico, the gaps between the strips are much wider.

© Valerie Cavill