A whitework embroidery where shapes are cut in the fabric and filled with needlelace.
Hedebo is unusual in that there are three distinct forms that all fall under
the same name but use quite different techniques. It is the third and most recent
form that is outlined here.
CHARACTERISTICS
•Tightly woven fabric.
•Design of cut-out, geometrical, shapes - scallops, hearts, crescents,
circles, half circles, diamonds, leaves and tulip shaped flowers.
•Shapes outlined with buttonhole stitch.
•Fillings attached to buttonhole outlines with buttonhole st. - bars,
scallops, wheels & lines.
•Background fabric is cut away after working.
ORIGINS
A peasant embroidery from Denmark which flourished in early 18th Century. Danes
call it 'Hedebosyning' meaning 'Hedebo Sewing' . Takes its name from the principal
workers who live in the district called `Heden', a heath, and ' Bo', to live
= people who live on the heath, the land that lies between Compehagen and Roskilde,
the former capital.
It is very closely related to Reticella lace. The embroidery was bold and strong, not as fine as Dresden work of Saxony or Ayrshire work from Scotland. The designs appear isolated and sparsely decorated as they do not have the supporting or connecting surface stitchery.
Early hedebo 1790-1850 used a square mesh with designs of simple abstract shapes, often resembling flowers and leaves and using cutwork and pulled fabric techniques. The shapes are outlined with two close rows of chain stitch. Some of the threads in the motif are removed in both directions and then strengthened and decorated. Later, the simple mesh outline and surface stitchery were replaced by cut out shapes.
In 20th C the technique became very popular through Europe, commercially successful and reproduced in magazines for dress and table linen. Sometimes the open spaces were filled with tatting or crochet, debasing the original work.
FABRIC AND THREADS
Early work was on a coarse linen and worked in heavy white embroidery thread.
Later fine linen fabric was used with fine linen thread. Cotton background and
cotton muslin were used as they became available. However work is best done
with linen thread which is stronger. Cotton thread is inclined to fuzz and is
not as stable for working.
STITCHES
Hedebo buttonhole stitch is worked using an extra twist for stability.
Satin stitch, eyelets and French knots occasionally added.
Edge finished with simple buttonhole, Antwerp or Armenian edge.
REFERENCES
Cutwork, Hedebo and Broderie Anglaise, edited by Jules & Kaethe Kliot, Lacis,
California, 1992
Embroider Now by Hetsie van Wyk, Cape Town 1977
Whitework by Barbara Dawson, Batsford, London, 1987
A – Z of Whitework Book 1 surface Embroidery, Inspirations Books, 2007
© Valerie Cavill 2008