CHARACTERISTICS
• Translucent fabric - organdie, fine linen, lawn, muslin, crepe de chine or nylon – either on its own or over an opaque fabric
• A shadow effect caused by stitches/fabric/wadding on the back
• Stitchery – closed herringbone or double back stitch - produces
• A design outline on the front - looks like back stitch.

This fine embroidery is worked on the back in closed herringbone stitch, or on front using double back stitch, producing on the right side, an outline, like a back stitch, and shadowy appearance with the longer stitches criss-crossing on the back. Stems and extra relief work were often added on the right side.

HISTORY
In India there developed a form of white work called Chikan, stitches worked on the back of very fine muslin fabric to give a shadowy effect. [See chikan history.] In 18th century, when Europe and India began trading, imported shadow work muslin goods inspired the Europeans.

Shadow work was also used in conjunction with other white work techniques especially Dresden work and become very fashionable during the 18th century where it was used for handkerchiefs, collars, doilies, tea cosies, cushions, sachets and napery.

SHADOW APPLIQUÉ - uses two layers of fabric.
Appliqué pieces are placed on a base fabric & beneath a transparent fabric such as organdie, organza, voile, nylon or net and the pieces outlined with stitches. Shadow appliqué was originally sewn with pin stitch, but running or back stitch is often used.

In Europe other forms of shadow work developed:
TRAPUNTO - uses two layers of fabric.
The design is outlined with running stitch. Certain areas of design are raised by stuffing wool between the two layers of fabric. When the top layer is semi- transparent and coloured wool is used, this can be considered a form of shadow work.

ITALIAN QUILTING - uses two layers of fabric.
A scrolling design is outlined with parallel lines of running or back stitches. Wool or cord is threaded between the lines giving a raised effect. When the top layer is semi-transparent and coloured wool is used, this too can be considered a form of shadow work.

References;
Anchor Manual of Needlework, Batsford, London, 1990
Shadow Work: The Easy Way, by Martha Pullen, Martha Pullen, USA, 1989
A-Z of Whitework: Book 1 Surface Embroidery, Inspiration Books, 2007
Chikan Embroidery: The Floral Whitework of India, by Sheila Paine, Shire Publications
The Techniques of Indian Embroidery, Anne Morrell, Batsford, London, 1994

© Valerie Cavill, 2010